The 2004 Primitivo Artas (85% Primitivo, 15% Negroamaro) is a voluptuous, richly-textured wine. Gorgeous notes of dark fruit, tobacco, leather, tobacco, plums and figs flow from the glass with notable depth and palate presence. This is a superb wine to drink now and over the next decade or so. It is a terrific effort from Castello Monaci. The wine was aged for 12 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Oak renderings of spice and toast dominate this hearty Primitivo at first but eventually give way to molasses, plum cake and candied fruit. The wine is big and sticky with sour almond flavors and would pair with meat stew or aged cheese. ——M.L.(10/1/2008)—— 88