The 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Gualto represents a return to a more austere and streamlined style. I say this after having written my review for the 2012 special Paesaggio Inatteso expression that is so much plumper and hardier in consistency. This Riserva, however, offers fine and polished aromas of wild berry, cassis and dried raspberry. There are background notes of underbrush, licorice, tar and white chocolate. There is no abruptness or sharpness to the wine, but you will recognize some of that sassy spice and edgy freshness that comes naturally in Sangiovese.