From grapes grown in the windy, warmish Delta comes this unusual Loire-Rhone blend, and it’s a really nice wine at a good price. Brimming with citrus, peach, wildflower and brine flavors, it’s quite tart in acidity, a wine that needs food. Try with oysters or clams, or as a refreshing appetizer.——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 86