A pungently smoky, ashen note typical for this grape variety hangs over the glass of Abacela 2009 Tempranillo, along with intimations of the blackberry and dark cherry that inform a ripe, lush and expansive palate. Szechuan pepper, tobacco, ash and stone lend interest and incisive energy to a lingering and satisfyingly juicy finish in which mocha and caramel offer the only hints of the wine’s 20% new (and 37% once-used) barrels. I suspect that this will show well through at least 2020. Abacela in southern Oregon’s Umpqua Valley illustrates a diversity of soils as well as exposures ranging from southerly to northerly, all of which no doubt supplies grist for the academic mill of Greg Jones, whose parents founded this estate, and who has become the go-to climatologist in matters vinous well beyond Oregon’s borders. Tel. (541) 679-6642