The unfiltered 2009 Barbaresco Pora opens with seductively dark and mysterious demeanor. It’s a wine with a long story to tell those who want to listen – sweet cherry, tar, cola, prune, leather and black licorice emerge slowly from the bouquet. It shows an already soft and generous quality in the mouth. You can either drink it immediately or cellar it a few more years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Giulio Grasso’s family entered the wine business “l(fā)ate,” as he tells it, because his male ancestors were soldiers in the various World Wars. Only after the turmoil in Europe settled, in the mid 1950s, did the family start to bottle wine. The estate’s most precious vineyard, the three hectares they own in the Asili cru, was a wedding dowry from Giulio’s grandmother (from Barbaresco) to his grandfather (from Treiso). Today, the family owns 25 hectares including the Valgrande and Marcarini crus in Treiso and the Asili and Pora crus in Barbaresco. Giulio’s father, Ernesto, farms the vineyards today at age 91.The Ca’ del Baio line-up is extremely impressive and delightful. These are some of the best wines from Barbaresco. Importer: Casa Bruno, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 235-7429; Bertin Henri Selections; tel. (305) 343-4054