The 2006 Ried Vogelsang – a blend of Pinot Blanc, Furmint, Welschriesling, and Muskateller – exudes ripe peach and pineapple with spicy, musky, animal, and almost sweaty notes. Its oily richness of texture and ripeness of fruit are enhanced by a perfectly-judged hint of sweetness, yet in finishing this turns unexpectedly refreshing and practically delicate, bitter fruit pit and saline notes adding interest and extending its length. The more you return to the glass, the more fascinating this wine becomes, and I am sure one will be able to say the same about repeated visits over the next several years. Heidi Schrock’s dry white collection from 2007 reflects the precocity and incipient botrytis of the vintage in the wines’ ripeness and amplitude, yet there is a sense of minerality and above all a leavening of fresh fruit acids that her lush, at times heady 2006s lacked. “From the 10th of September, we had gorgeous weather,” she relates, “and we brought everything in quickly.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300