The 2008 Pinot Noir Jerome Reserve is a blend of the top barrels in the cellar. Made with some whole clusters, it is the most expressive of the Lemelson wines both aromatically and on the palate. Dense, satin-textured, bordering on opulent, it is loaded with ripe black fruits. With outstanding volume, balance, and length, it will deliver a drinking window extending from 2013 to at least 2023. Tel. (503) 852-6619; www.lemelsonvineyards.com

The Jerome reserve is exactly what you want and expect in a reserve. Not just bigger, not just more of everything—it has that—but without sacrificing terroir or balance. Supple, veined with red fruits, purple fruits, smoke, earth and barrel toast, the wine moves sinuously across the palate into a full-bore finish. Lots of life ahead. ——P.G.(10/1/2011)—— 92