This is their fifth vintage of merlot (started in 2000, but the ’04 has been sourced from Columbia valley vineyards due to the freeze. The fruit carries blackberry jam into the strong, bourbon-barrel flavors of oak, although it was mostly French, rather than American. The tannins are chewy and the wine has a blocky construction, simple and hard in the mouth.——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 86