The Kaseler Nies’chen’s steep slope of blue slate faces the sunny south, accounting for this northerly site’s ability to produce a dry Riesling that reached 12% alcohol in 2008. Although many Ruwer and Saar wines seem overly lean and sinewy when made in a dry style, this example verges on opulent, with exotic tropical fruit notes.——J.C.(11/1/2010)—— 90