Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Auslese, Nahe, Germany

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From a parcel singled out early on for its likely suitability to this genre (and lack of suitability for Grosses Gewachs), the Diels’ 2011 Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Auslese is memorably redolent of caraway, rose petal and smoky black tea and, as were its Kabinett and Spatlese counterparts, here allied on a creamy yet refreshingly fluid palate to overripe Persian and musk melons as well as Rainier cherry. Hints of chamomile and sassafras add to a striking sense of inner-mouth perfume and persist into a levitating, soaring finish. Notions of nut paste, vanilla, candied rose petal, and salted caramel emphasize the confectionary side to this beauty while conveying saliva-inducing allure. Look for at least 25 years of mouthwatering temptation. Caroline Diel is now the mother of two, but shows every intention and indication of personally staying on top of her estate’s viticulture. In collaboration with long-time cellarmaster Christoph Friedrich, she is both perpetuating and further refining the styles of wine that have come to characterize and enhance the long-standing reputation of Schlossgut Diel. Picking began in the last week of September and most of the top Rieslings were harvested already in the first week of October, by which point there was a significant amount of botrytis, happily largely noble, most of it picked-out in parallel with the fruit for the Grosse Gewachse. Wisely, I think – as heaven knows they have an austere side as is – the Diels elected for the sake of moderating alcohol to leave a bit more residual sugar behind this year than usual in their Grosse Gewachse. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300