While I am not surprised that the 2001 Thorevilos turned out to be perfect, the 2001 Madrona Ranch was more of an eye-opener in that it has become even more extraordinary than I predicted eight years ago. A prodigious wine, with complex notes of subtle barbecue smoke intermixed with blueberry pie, black currant liqueur, acacia flowers, lead pencil shavings, and sweet foresty floor notes, this wine builds incrementally with layer upon layer of fruit, glycerin and concentration. The finish goes well past a minute, and the wine is full-bodied and deep, with wonderfully sweet tannin. It is still an adolescent in terms of its total evolution, but it is irresistible simply because of the flawless nature of the wine and incredible perfume and flavor intensity. Simply amazing! Both of these wines are adolescents, and probably won’t peak for another 5-8 years and keep for 30-40. Tel. (707) 963-7487; Fax (707) 963-5104

Abreu’s 21 Madrona Ranch took us into the stratosphere with its super-expressive dark red fruit, floral aromatics and stunning overall balance. There are few Napa Valley Cabernets I would rather drink than those of David Abreu and Brad Grimes. I have been lucky to have the 21 a number of times. It has never been anything less than stellar