This wine is gorgeous from the moment the cork is pulled. Sweet fruit—berries, currants and jam—is perfectly matched to more subtle scents of sassafras and tobacco. Nicely woven together, this youthful wine coasts along on a magic carpet of seamless flavors, gently sliding into a lightly toasty finish with a lick of bacon fat. Though fairly soft, it seems like a good candidate to improve for 5 or 6 years.——P.G.(10/1/2008)—— 91