The Rocheux bottling comes from a vineyard parcel with especially rocky soil, and there is a heightened minerality along with a racy, well-defined edge to the wine that the French call “nerveux.” It’s a thrill to taste if you race along with it and if you like a more acidic style, with tart raspberry fruit as your companion. The finish brings in leaf and vanilla, all in context and perfectly balanced. ——P.G.(10/1/2010)—— 92