Pale straw-gold colored, the 2007 Botrytis Riesling gives a pronounced nose of lime cordial, lemon tart, musk, acacia honey and orange blossom. Very crisp, sweet and viscous, this concentrated wine presents a wonderfully long finish that’s just a little straightforward. Drink it now to 2015. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993

One criticism sometimes leveled at botrytis wines is that they’re less reflective of their origins. But this Riesling, despite being sweet and concentrated, still shows the crisp lime and mineral notes characteristic of Eden Valley. Poured over that foundation are layers of honey, dried apricot and ripe peaches, but the strident citrus emerges again on the finish. ——J.C.(12/15/2008)—— 89