Here is a rarity among rarities—a Washington Pinot Gris from old vines dating back to the 1970s. Spicy and tart, with New World fruit flavors of melon and pear set in a wine with Old World craftsmanship and sensibilities it's just 12.5% alcohol, bone dry, fully ripened, laden with minerality. Vivid and long, it’s a gem that would be a perfect start to any holiday feast.——P.G.(5/1/2011)—— 90