While the rather green flavors in an already 12.5% alcohol and quite noticeably low acid basic Wittmann 2011 Silvaner trocken – from vines in the Aulerde – point to the limitations of a vintage in which he felt that these grape had to be picked slightly ahead of optimum phenolic evolution, there is an attractively creamy feel and admirable persistence to its chervil-tinged apple, turnip, and almond melange. I would plan on enjoying it soon. A new receiving line incorporating a vibrating sorting table is among the latest manifestations of Philipp Wittmann’s continuing drive to render what are already some of the most sought-after wines in Germany steadily better. Any fear that Riesling here might suffer from deficient vivacity or juiciness in 2011 was quickly banished once I began tasting. The last fruit wasn’t picked this year in Morstein until October 17, yet retained a formidable 8.5 grams of acidity, by which point raisined fruit had to be sorted-out. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700