Brisk acidity is the best feature of this wine. It reflects the long hangtime of the cool vintage. Lots of new French oak brings vanilla and buttered toast to the equation, but it’s in keeping with the power of the underlying pineapple and lemon jam, pear and honey flavors. A decadent, flashy Chardonnay for drinking now with rich dishes, such as lobster and scallops. ——S.H.(11/1/2011)—— 92