The 1996 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard exhibits a Vosne-Romanee/Richebourg-like violet, black cherry, and smoky-scented nose of considerable intensity. Full-bodied, with superb richness, admirable delineation, a lush, concentrated mid-palate, and black cherry, earthy notes in the spicy finish, this is another impressive, super-concentrated Pinot Noir with both complexity and equilibrium. It should drink well for a decade.It is easy to get excited about Kistler's Pinot Noirs. All are aged in 100% new oak, made in small lots (250-500 cases), and bottled with neither fining nor filtration. They are trying to keep the levels of SO2 to minimal dosages so the wines can be as expressive as possible. These Pinot Noirs can easily hold their own in blind tastings with the finest red Burgundies.Release date, 3/99.Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709.

Deliciously rich and focused, with a bright core of ripe plum, black cherry, anise, cedar and spice. Impressively gains nuance and complexity on the finish, where the flavors sail on. Drink now through 2006. 273 cases made. -JL