From the new Santa Rita Hills appellation, this inky-dark, purple wine stains the sides of the glass, one indication of how big and young it is. It has the jammy berry flavors and insolent acidity of youth, while oversize tannins make it muscular. Not drinkable now, except with the biggest foods. Try aging until 2006. ——S.H.(12/1/2002)—— 89