Red Willow is Columbia’s showplace, and the relationship between winemaker David Lake and winegrower Mike Sauer is symbiosis at its best. The Cab Franc is a tight, tannic, earthy wine, with layers of mineral digging deep into the wine. The fruit is hard and the acids firm; it seems to want more time to display its depth and elegance.——P.G.(6/1/2001)—— 88