Carl von Schubert introduces his 2007 Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein as a “l(fā)ittle” example of its genre. In fact it is far from illustrating the too-common tendency this vintage of offering but modest concentration of acidity that had clearly significantly diminished in the course of unprecedented long hang time. On the contrary, here a bright, almost tear-jerking citrus character is evident throughout, accompanied by an appealingly delicacy and penetration. With the concentration of an herbal elixir mingled with lemon, tangerine, pear, and lime sorbet, this offers terrific sheer refreshment, while herbal, nut oil, and citrus zest accents offer pungent, persistent finishing interest. I would want to re-visit this in a decade before pronouncing on long-term aging potential, but those who can afford and truly want to drink Riesling Eiswein from top sites and growers will not be the least disappointed. These grapes were left free-hanging, incidentally, not shrouded in film while awaiting their big freeze.I wrote about vintages 2005 and 2006 in Carl von Schubert’s and cellar master and vineyard manager Stefan Kraml’s hands as representing a return to the traditional Grunhaus excellence, because their wines performed quite well despite manifest vintage limitations. In 2007, the weather was far more cooperative, and the von Schubert collection – harvested over a 20 day period, leisurely compared with the pressures of 2006 – is the finest from any of the “big five” growers who collectively practically exhaust the Ruwer’s remaining top-class acreage. For the most part, they illustrate impeccable balance and clarity, and at their best reach the exhilarating level one would a dozen or more years ago have routinely anticipated at this address under favorable meteorological circumstances. Grunhaus has moved to practicing almost entirely spontaneous fermentations, which von Schubert sees as tending to moderate acidity but also “to achieve a less efficient yield of alcohol” from a given level of sugar, “which is an advantage nowadays just as it was a disadvantage in earlier times.” He was, incidentally, honestly taken-aback a decade or so ago – and was not the only estate owner to experience such a realization – to learn that the ancient, slow-growing, slate-rooted oaks being harvested from his considerable forest and sold at rapidly ascending prices were ultimately destined for prestigious French barrel-makers. The esteemed Nahe-based cooper Horsch has since been commissioned to gradually construct barrels for the Grunhaus from ancient Grunhauser Wald oaks, and von Schubert said he welcomes a time when wood will dominate over tanks in his cellar, although not only cost factors but also the sensitivity of Riesling to new wood preclude a pace more rapid than two or three new casks per year.Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel (918) 622-0424

If you're seeking laser-like focus in your eiswein, this is the bottling for you. Although it starts off musky and feral, it's also ultracrisp and racy, with intense pineapple fruit surrounded by hints of wild meat and spice, then finishing with blazingly pure citrus.——J.C.(4/1/2010)—— 93