The vineyard is in the cool, southwesterly Green Valley, and the wine shows brilliant acidity and tangy green apple flavors, enriched with spicy, smoky new oak. It’s a forward, rather pushy Chardonnay, insistent in its New World assertiveness, but an enormously attractive one that calls for equally big foods, like lobster, or scallops in a coconut-curry sauce.——S.H.(10/1/2008)—— 91