The 2003 Blanc de Noirs – his first all-Pinot methode champenoise – offers aromas of jellied and distilled red fruits on toast, a fine bead, and a nice sense of density and brightness on a palate marked by red raspberry and salted nuts, and with a subtle, somewhat austere finish. This will probably get a little more time on secondary lees before disgorgement but it is already more than promising. Tel. (800) 371-7971