A surprisingly big, darkly colored wine that continues to perform admirably, the 1962 Gruaud-Larose remains concentrated for the vintage, with deep, black curranty, cedary, and herbaceous flavors, full body, and a satiny finish. This intensely fruity wine has drunk well and been fully mature for over two decades. It has yet to exhibit signs of cracking up--a testament to how long well-balanced Bordeaux can last at its apogee. Anticipated maturity: Now-2000. Last tasted, 11/89.