The fat, dry, richly fruit 1996 Valpolicella is in total contrast to the ocean of industrial plonk that emerges from this area. It displays an attractive cherry, almond, and dried herb-scented nose, lively, sweet fruit on the mid-palate as well as a velvety finish. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ (201) 445-0620