The 2004 Riesling Eroica, a wine made in partnership with Germany’s Dr. Ernst Loosen, continues this wine’s tradition of quality, fair pricing and stellar commercial success (23,000 cases were produced and they had to be allocated!). Its lovely aromas display white flowers, spices, and linden. On the palate, this light to medium-bodied effort reveals superb focus in its pure, harmonious personality. Spices, minerals, linden, and chamomile make up this seamless wine’s character. Drink it over the next 8 years. Though not reviewed as it was a tank sample, the 2005 Riesling Eroica was also tasted and found to be a worthy successor to the 2004. Tel. (800) 267-6793; www.ste-michelle.com

For thoughts on Chateau Ste Michelle’s uniqueness and recent evolution, consult my extensive April, 2013 text designed to introduce recent tasting notes. I could tell that Ste Michelle reached into the inner sanctum of their cellar to let me taste the 2004 Riesling Eroica alongside more recent vintages, because the bottle was hand-signed by collaborator Loosen. This is the product of an especially hot summer followed by relatively cool weather and unusual rain in autumn, which at least had the virtue of extending the ripening period. There is a decadent amalgam of alkaline, bitter herbal and cider elements here that suggests the wine is now several years past its prime. Soft in feel and attenuated in finish, it nonetheless manages a modicum of refreshment and certainly retains considerable interest, but should be drunk soon. Both the steep learning curve on which the Eroica team was embarked and the unusual nature of this vintage almost surely render misleading any attempt to compare this 2004 with its exceptional 2007 counterpart. For thoughts on Chateau Ste Michelle’s uniqueness and recent evolution, consult my extensive April, 2013 text designed to introduce recent tasting notes. Tel. (425) 488-1133