The white wines begin with the 2008 Eroica Riesling, a collaboration between Germany’s Ernst Loosen and Chateau Ste. Michelle. The grapes are sourced from a number of sites and several AVAs. Because of the winery’s vast holdings, this superb Riesling can be made in quantity (27,000 cases) while maintaining exceptional quality. Light straw-colored, it has a lovely, captivating perfume of acacia, honey, mineral, melon, and tropical aromas. Crisp, light- bodied (11.5% alcohol), concentrated, and vibrant, this just off-dry (1.77% RS), Kabinett-styled Riesling has the balance to evolve for several years and should drink well for a decade. Chateau Ste. Michelle continues to demonstrate that a winery can be large and quality-oriented at the same time. Their current collection is as good as or better than anything it has done in the past. Tel. (425) 415-3300; www.ste-michelle.com

The 10th vintage of Eroica may be the best ever. It’s supremely fresh, spicy, and mineral-driven. The well-textured mouthfeel runs the gamut from celery, chervil and other fresh herbs into melon, citrus and stone. Though technically off-dry, this is a low pH, high acid wine with plenty of length and depth.——P.G.(12/31/2009)—— 93