There’s a lifted quality to the bouquet of this wine that’s slightly distracting, but also plenty of cherry fruit. In fact, it’s the somewhat monolithic nature of the fruit that’s most disappointing; for a wine of this lauded reputation there needs to be more evidence of complexity. Some of that will no doubt come with bottle age, but it’s hard to see now. Try after 2014.——J.C.(10/1/2009)—— 89