A gorgeous wine that defies the modern idea that wines have to be big and brash to be excellent. This one feels simultaneously fresh and old as the hills, with a meaty, merdy appeal. Red fruit aromas and flavors are concentrated and sprinkled in black pepper; the tannins are manageable now, but still substantial enough to age. A modest 13.5% alcohol, and, bless ’em, sealed en screwcap. Tastes good now, but probably even better around 2009. Imported by Click Wine Group.——D.T.(8/1/2005)—— 95