From Syrah and Mourvedre grown on pure schist, Hecht and Bannier’s 2007 Faugeres – like its predecessors – will spend close to two years in demi-muid. “Every year,” remarks Bannier, “we have this question about how far we can go into Mourvedre,” and thus far the answer appears to have been “ever deeper.” The trick to maintaining balance with this grape, he says, lies in significant part in selecting fruit grown at higher-elevation, and it is a trick the two have clearly managed with aplomb. Hints of coconut and caramel complement aromas of very ripe black fruits, but intensely pungent, resinous, scrubby herbs and roasted meats vie for attention. Concentrated blackberry and elderberry assume an almost doughy substantiality on the palate, and brown spices and rich nut oils mingle with the deep, savory meatiness and stony low-tones. This really expands and intensifies as it reaches a finish of riveting length. There is more superficial sweetness of fruit here than with other Hecht & Bannier releases, but at the same time more (still finely tannic) structure, more energy, and more intense carnal and mineral elements. I would plan on following this little masterpiece for 8-10 years. (The inaugural 2001 is outstanding today.) Too bad there are only destined to be 200-300 cases a year of this cuvee, a tiny fraction of the production of Hecht & Bannier’s other wines. Gregory Hecht and Francois Bannier’s negociant partnership – entering its seventh year – is singularly quality-oriented, and their connections with growers and tireless tasting trips throughout the Languedoc and Roussillon (350-400 visits each year) are rewarding wine lovers wherever their limited production is sold. (Consult the Roussillon section of this report for their wines from that region.) Make no mistake: wines under the Hecht & Bannier label can compete with the very best being produced by individual estates in their respective appellations, making them among the world’s finest red wine values. (Prices have remained unchanged for three vintages.) The aim in selection of lots, as well as in elevage (much of which takes place in foudres or demi-muid), is to capture ripe fruit and rich textures while conserving fresh fruit vivacity and setting a standard of lift and elegance such as is possessed by only the best wines being grown today in the Languedoc and Roussillon. The partners (who met as students in Burgundy) will remain focused on just a few outstanding locations where a sufficient number of growers (typically 8-12 per appellation) practice low yields, hand-harvest, press impeccably, and will honor a handshake “contract.” At most, they suggest, a couple of additional appellations might one day be added to their line-up (which also includes a consistently delightful Syrah-based rose). As Hecht puts it, “for the protection of all parties, we intend to stay small,” both in total production per appellation and volume per grower. Meanwhile, in order to offer something less-expensive in higher-volume, a new cuvee has debuted this year – employing a new appellation that permits blending across both the Languedoc and Roussillon.Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Although this is not the newest release from Hecht & Bannier, it is drinking nicely now, with mature notes of kirsch and black currant backed by accents of sweet spice, crushed violets and soft leather. Though aged, the mouth is still full and big with gripping tannins and a firm structure. The finish is long, evoking flavors of cocoa-dusted blackberries and peppery spice. Drink now–2014.——L.B.(12/31/2011)—— 91