Chateau Ste. Michelle's attractively packaged single-vineyard Chardonnays as well as their Chateau Reserve are fine, interesting, admirably different wines. However, they do not offer a very good price/quality rapport. My only complaint regarding Chateau Ste. Michelle's red wine program is that the wines are the result of excessively conservative, safe wine-making. They are well-made, but the potentially fine raw materials have been too sculptured for my tastes. Less tartness (low PH's) would result in more appealing textures. The 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon reveals good cassis fruit in a medium-bodied, straightforward format. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. I hope that Chateau Ste. Michelle, which has enormous resources and potential, will recognize the fact that their restrained, understated wine-making style may win fans among Professors of Oenology and technocrats, but not among hedonists. These are fine wines, but they are not exciting. Tel. (206) 488-1133

Lean and chewy, bay leaf and other herbal notes adding interest to the dark fruit flavors. Needs to soften. Best after 1997. 60,000 cases made. -