Readers looking for realistic wine values should check out this offering from Peter Lehmann. The 2004 Clancy’s, a blend of Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot exhibits a deep ruby color accompanied by scents of smoky oak, sweet black currants, cedar, and a hint of underbrush. Medium-bodied, crisp, and fresh with surprising elegance, this tasty, supple, well-made red is ideal for drinking over the next several years. It appears Peter Lehmann’s cuvees have become increasingly commercial over recent vintages, and are meant to be drunk early in life.Importer: Hess Wines of California, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 255-1144

A good value, Lehmann’s 2004 Clancy’s easily blends cherry, blackberry, vanilla, smoke, spice, coffee and maple syrup aromas and flavors into a harmonious, integrated whole. The texture is creamy-soft, showing just a dusting of tannins on the finish. Drink now.——J.C.(3/1/2007)—— 88