The 2007 Cuvee D. S. is a blend of classic Cava varieties that is selected from the vineyards preferred by Dolores Sala, the erstwhile president of the company. Since 1969 it has only been made in certain vintages and is aged for a minimum of 36 to 48 months. It has a well-defined, brioche-scented bouquet with touches of acacia and lime flower. The palate has a complex opening with subtle hazelnut and smoky notes wrapped in a pleasant reduction. It is well-balanced with a taut finish that does not hang around for applause: a stylish Cava with precision and substance. Drink now-2016. Like its archrival Codorniu, Freixenet is associated with commercial Cava that sells in staggering quantities around the world, the go-to choice for consumers who want bubbles without Champagne's price tag. However, for this report I have focused upon their lesser-known premium range that is surprisingly diverse. I must confess that when they did pour their most popular label, it only served to illustrate the gulf in quality. Importer: Freixenet USA, Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-7256; www.freixenetusa.com