Tightly wound, with firm mineral, gravel, dried cherry and berry fruit that's well-focused, leaving you hoping for a shade more depth. Drink now through 2010. 124 cases made. -JL

Here’s a riper style of Pinot. It’s rich in gooey pastry-filling cherry, raspberry, cinnamon and vanilla flavors, and there’s not much acidity, but there sure is a lot of smoky new oak. The challenge is to get complexity and nuance. The winemaker is Anthony Austin, who studied with Tchelistcheff and was founding winemaker at Firestone. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 87