The 2004 Du Brul Vineyard Reserve is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc. Easily the most broad-shouldered and masculine of Tamarack Cellar’s wines, it is purple-colored with a brooding perfume of pain grille, spice box, black cherry, and blackberry liqueur. Thick and dense on the palate, with gobs of flavor, this full-bodied effort demands 6-8 years of cellaring and should drink well through 2040. Kudos to Tamarack Cellars for an outstanding, individualistic lineup of well-priced wines.Tel. (509) 526-3533; www.tamarackcellars.com