A dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by big, funky, animal scents intermixed with wild blackberry, raspberry, licorice, lavender, and Provencal herb notes. Medium-bodied, and neither as rich nor as interesting in the mouth as the exotic perfume suggests, it should be consumed over the next 3-4 years.Tel. (800) 946-3130

From Pisoni, a huge, flashy and forward wine, stuffed with cherry-chocolate fruit flavors. It’s a little awkward now in the way its youthful tannins, oak and fruit haven’t consolidated. Should knit together and improve in the next year or so. ——S.H.(7/1/2005)—— 89