The nose on Keuka Lake’s Evergreen Lek Vineyard is wonderfully intriguing with dark notes of smoke, petrol and brine accented by hits of ripe, yellow peach. Dry on the palate with nuances of dark steel, smoke and orange peel, this medium-bodied Riesling is brightened by a flash of fresh orange acidity and sweet grapefruit pith on the finish. ——A.I.(2/1/2011)—— 87