The 2008 Pinot Noir Freedom Hill Vineyard comes from a site originally planted in 1981 but which has mostly been replanted because of phylloxera. It delivers a spicy, understated bouquet leading to a slightly narrow mid-palate and average length finish. It is the only wine in the collection that does not merit an outstanding rating.Ken Wright’s Pinot Noirs in 2008 are exceptional but only slightly better than his 2007s from a much more difficult vintage. Perhaps it is in the more challenging vintages that the cream really rises to the top, whereas the challenge in 2008 was to NOT make a really good wine.Tel. (503) 852-7070; www.kenwrightcellars.com

This is a different style than past vintages of Freedom Hill, with less tannin and alcohol. Cranberry fruit flavors are augmented with some pretty whiffs of incense, but it feels a bit simple in the mouth, and turns slightly chalky through the finish. ——P.G.(6/1/2010)—— 88