The 2005 Pinot Noir “Freedom Hill Vineyard” is the winery’s southern-most vineyard, is in the process of being replanted, and is just coming back on-line. The nose is muted, the acidity elevated, and the tannins hard. There is substantial fruit but the wine’s balance is questionable.Ken Wright has a Syrah/Claret project under the Tyrus Evans label. The fruit is sourced from southern Oregon and eastern Washington. I tasted four wines, all of them outstanding. I list them without tasting notes: 2004 Claret “Del Rio Vineyard – 90; 2004 Claret “Ciel du Cheval Vineyard” – 91; 2005 Syrah, Walla Walla – 92; 2005 Syrah “Del Rio Vineyard” – 90+.Ken Wright Cellars has long been one of the reference points for Pinot Noir fanatics. Ken Wright is the ultimate terroirist, stating on his web site (which I highly recommend reading) that the value of Pinot Noir is that it is the perfect vehicle for expressing the characteristics of the site in which it is grown. He says that the secret to making great Pinot Noir is “?learning how to farm. Every vineyard has its own issues.”Tel. (800) 571-6825; www.kenwrightcellars.com. Also tasted: 2005 Pinot Blanc (91), 2005 Chardonnay “Celilo Vineyard” (93)

The Freedom Hill is once again the most tannic wine in the Ken Wright lineup, even in a vintage that showcases finesse and lightness. Less aromatic than most of the others, this is scented with earth and coffee grounds, and the full-flavored fruit is gutsy and thick. Just the barest hint of volatility strikes the nose, but it has been nicely managed and contained. ——P.G.(4/1/2007)—— 91