La Spinetta’s 2008 Moscato d’Asti Bricco Quaglia is a soft, generous wine but in this vintage it doesn’t seem to have the verve and delineation of the finest years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2010. I continue to be impressed with the fervor with which proprietor Giorgio Rivetti pursues his new business ventures. Rivetti has recently set up a new importation business to handle his wines and those of a select number of producer-friends. Given that Rivetti has succeeded in eliminating at least one layer of cost from his own wines, it would have been nice to see him pass at least a portion of those saving along to consumers. Importers: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021 and Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY (516) 677-9300

This Moscato d’Asti offers beautiful aromatic intensity to match its luminous golden color. The wine is fresh and zippy in the mouth but then that natural sweetness takes over and caresses the palate. This is an excellent example of Piedmont’s favorite sparkling dessert wine. ——M.L.(11/1/2009)—— 88