Tempranillo, which makes up three quarters of the El Jefe blend (the rest is Cabernet Sauvignon), is still rare in Washington, but what little is planted does well. The En Chamberlin vineyard, on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla AVA, is biodynamically farmed, and produces wines with rich, earthy, meaty flavors. In truth, it is the biodynamic flavors that dominate rather than anything Rioja-like; its flavors lean toward the generic. ——P.G.(11/1/2008)—— 87