Merryvale's dark ruby-colored 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon (14.5% alcohol) displays an attractive black cherry, currant, earthy, loamy soil, and spicy wood-scented bouquet, a medium-bodied texture, compressed palate, and good sweetness, purity, and ripeness. Drink it over the next 5-7 years. Tel. (707) 963-2225; Fax (707) 963-1949

A real heavyweight of a wine, with a compact black-fruit nose. Rich and mouthfilling, with sweetness in spades. A Bordeaux blend only its composition. The 14.5% alcohol, chocolaty palate and unctuous texture make it a slice of California heaven.——M.S.(2/1/2000)—— 90