From 65-year-old vines in a little-known Premier Cru between Millandes and Blanchards (and tasted just before bottling), Perrot-Minot’s 2005 Morey-St.-Denis La Riotte Vieilles Vignes leads with aromas of toasted almond and pistachio, sweetly ripe plum, black cherry and cassis, segues into a creamy, ripe palate with prominent love handles yet possessed of persistently fresh fruit mingling with brown spices, licorice and mint, as well as a low-toned chocolate richness. The nearly indelible finish preserves layers of fresh fruit, creamy richness, and tactile cinnamon spice. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400.