Extremely tannic at the age of five years, and that astringency accentuates the dryness, making the wine austere and distant. It has a dense, complex core of blackberries, coated with immaculately fine, sweet oak. Feels important and dramatic, but too young. Begs to be housed in a good cellar for a good eight years. ——S.H.(5/1/2011)—— 95