Isenhower Cellars, a 3,300-case Walla Walla winery, started in 1999. The winery purchases and blends grapes from a variety of AVAs. The 2004 Syrah “River Beauty” was barrel-fermented and then aged for 16 months in French oak. It emits classic Syrah perfume of smoke, leather, bacon, sausage, and blueberry. Made in a forward style, this ripe, spicy Syrah has plenty of depth and a long, pure finish. There is enough structure to ensure pleasant drinking through 2020. Tel. (509) 526-7896; www.isenhowercellars.com