Sourced from Elerding Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills, Isenhower’s 2008 Syrah River Beauty features cooked blackberry and cherry with a hint of tar on the nose as well as on a dense, chewy, slightly stewed and diffuse palate. Suggestions of salt, pepper, mint, and tar inform a finish of considerable sheer persistence but not much juicy fruit character. Still, this is impressive for its aromatic intensity and palate density. I’m skeptical of holding onto it for more than a couple of years.
Midwesterners Brett and Denise Isenhower opened their Walla Walla winery just over a dozen years ago, and following early and widespread recognition, they planted their first estate vines in 2008 with designs on eventually growing about half of their fruit. Their diverse offerings typically run to 2,000-4,000 bottles each.
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