Scents of onion and wet fur are at first disconcerting, but with time the wine finds prettier, fruitier aromas as well as its legs. The palate delivers a full blast of tart red berries. Some chocolate notes contribute richness. The finish is chewy, tannic and tight, and there’s a hint of lemon, which seems out of place. ——W.E.(5/1/2003)—— 87