Even better is the 2009 Condrieu Les Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay. In contrast to La Combe de Malleval, which is put through 100% malolactic and aged in foudre, the Vieilles Vignes de Jacques Vernay has its malolactic blocked. Perhaps that explains why the wine tastes like powdered granite with honeysuckle and tropical fruits in the background. With noteworthy minerality as well as an incredible finish, this superb Condrieu should be consumed over the next 2-3 years. (Not yet released)One of France’s most brilliant small artisanal wineries is that of the Ogier family in Ampuis, situated about six blocks north of Guigal’s vast network of underground cellars. The value picks are the wines made from the steep hillsides north of the old Roman settlement of Vienne.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083