One of America’s favorite sparkling wine houses proves it’s still got the right moves. This brut-style wine, with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, begins with delicate but assertive aromas of strawberry and lime. It’s dry and crisp and elegant, with hints of berries and limes, but it’s most notable for its richness, balance, harmony and finesse. Goes down really easy. ——S.H.(12/1/2000)—— 90