From selected parcels or lots of Blanchot and three-quarters raised in barriques of various ages, the 2006 Chablis Reserve de l’Obediencerie is the latest in a line begun in 1991, and while far and away the most expensive in Laroche’s line-up, I find it far from the most delicious or convincing (an impression strengthened by the performance of the 2005 on this same occasion). Prior to filtration, it certainly shared the opulence and floral perfume of the “regular” Blanchot (and its barrel component is better-integrated and the wine clearer than the corresponding 2005) but it lacks the fineness of the hints of minerality. Broadly rich and plush, it will no doubt appeal to some tasters more than it did to me, and there is no denying this is impressive in its way. I lack the experience as yet to judge its age-worthiness. Winemaker Denis de la Bourdonnaye and proprietor Michel Laroche – who export 85% of their wines, and were Burgundy’s pioneers (along with Verget) in utilizing screw cap closures – are dedicated to the proposition that Chablis can be seductive and sensual while remaining true to its terroir, and they have proven this in bottle with their outstanding 2005 and 2006 collections. Importer: Remy-Cointreau USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 424-2244

Full nutty flavours on the palate. Rich, fleshy style, but with decent acidic grip and length. Modern and attractive.

There is a definite richness to this wine, the ripe white fruit and melon flavors aided by a judicious amount of vanilla and toast. That makes the wine seductive, but Laroche does not forget its Chablis origins and leaves enough room for a core of grapefruit, steel and tight acidity. Screwcap.——R.V.(5/1/2009)—— 93